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Archived Observation

Janet and I were in New York City during Christmas. I sort of planned that the trip should include Christmas day in New York because as a non-christian, Christmas can be one of the most boring days to spend in San Francisco.

In San Francisco, almost everything shuts down for Christmas. Sure, some bars are still serving up drinks and a couple of ethnic restaurants are still open for business, but everything else closes down. You would think in a city that touts such diverse cultures, that we wouldn't pander to the christian majority once again.

So, this year we arranged our vacation so we could be in a city with some real diversity. When we got to New York, we made a point to figure out what neighborhoods would have shops open on Christmas day. What we found out was that almost every part of the city still had stuff going on. Sure, the big department stores were closed, but the small shops and restaurants were still in operation. In deference to my Jewish heritage, we decided to spend Christmas in one of the Jewish neighborhoods… the Upper West Side.

So, we grabbed the subway (which, unlike in San Francisco still runs on schedule on the holidays) and made our way  uptown for lunch. Since we were doing the Jews-on-Christmas afternoon, we also grabbed tickets for the 1:30 showing of Star Trek: Insurrection at the Loew's 84th Street Cinema.

Lunch was a couple of fresh bagels from H and H Bagels on 80th and Broadway. We then walked by Zabars, which was not only open, but completely packed with hundreds of people who just saw Christmas Day as a friday off from work. We kept walking up Broadway, noticing how almost everything was open… even the Jewish Soul Food restaurant (read: Chinese) was open and doing a brisk business.

One of the things that they do in New York at the movies (and most of the North East) is that they start the previews about 10 minutes before the movie is supposed to start. It gives the people who got there early so they could get a good seat something to do while they waited. Then the movie started and something amazing happened: everybody shut up.

You see, if you have never experienced a movie in San Francisco, let me describe it to you. First, the crowd hisses at all of the previews. Well, most of the crowd does… some people either use those damned laser pointers or just scream insults at the trailer. Then the movie starts, but everybody still talks. If you shush at someone, it only serves to make them talk louder.

Actually, it doesn't stop at movies. I have been to musicals and plays in San Francisco where people just talk and talk and talk through the whole thing. When we went to see the San Francisco Symphony a few years ago, people showed up in shorts and t-shirts, eating and talking through the whole thing. You don't even want to know what people do at concerts.

Some people blame this on the fact that people spend so much time listening to CDs at home and watching movies on TV, that they are not used to being quiet when at a theater. Bullshit. Most people are just selfish, undisciplined louts whose parents never taught them how to behave.

Back to New York. When the lights went down, so did the talking. At one point, a little kid behind me was asking his father what was going on in the movie. I quietly ssssshed the kid, and the father actually apologized. Then he whispered to his son: When you're at the movies, you have to be quiet.

It's a simple concept that my mother taught me when I went to see my first movie: if you have to buy a ticket to get in, respect the fact that other people had to pay to get in as well. That means, you don't ruin the experience for anyone. When you're at a movie, you shut up. When you go to the theater or to the symphony, you dress well, enter quietly, and save your comments until the applause or until you leave the building.

We left the movie realising that if we lived in New York, we'd start going to the movies regularly again. However, until that happens, we'll save our movie watching to the three channels of HBO that we have at home. At least then, the only time I'll have to go sssssh is if the cats start acting up.

Posted in Observations.


Wednesday Night

Wednesday night, we went to the Toronado to say hi to Ian and have a quick beer. Of course, with us one beer turns into two which turns into four. So, our initial plan of bring there for a half of an hour was scrapped, and it we didn’t get home until after 11pm, two hours after we left.

Wednesday nights are quickly becoming my favorite nights at the bar. First off, it’s quiet. Also, you can usually count on most of the regulars being there (this week it was Tad, Todd and Crab)… and since the new beers seem to come on tap on Tuesday afternoons, there’s usually a surplus of fresh beer on too.

Janet is still on her Guinness kick, and she polished off two imperial pints before the night was over. I started off with a nice Lagunator Doppelbock, then moved onto a Fred followed by a pint of

Untouchable and then concluded the night with a Boont Amber.

I know you’re thinking, “What the heck are you talking about… a beer named Fred?” Yep. Hair of the Dog brewing of Portland makes three beers: Adam, Fred and Golden Rose. Fred is a strong beer served in 13 oz tulip glasses. Fred is a very malty beer that is reminiscent of a barleywine. Regardless of what exact type of beer it is, it’s damn tasty.

There are two types of craft beer manufacturers out there. One type makes very classic-style beers. Breweries like Sierra Nevada, Deschutes and even (ugh) Gordon Biersch makes beers that follow the classic recipes. Their pilsners taste like Pilsner Urquell, the Marzens taste like Spaten Oktoberfest, and the stouts try to taste like Guinness. That doesn’t mean that they aren’t great breweries (with the exception of Gordon Biersch)… just that they aren’t very creative.

Then you have the breweries like Speakeasy, Lagunitas and Hair of the Dog. They start off with the basic idea (I want to make a Marzen style beer…) and then take that and make it into something unique. Breweries like this come up with hoppy doppelbocks (which are usually sweet) like Lagunator and extremely malty Marzens like Untouchable.

The unfortunate thing is that most beer festivals judge against the “classic style.” Based on this, an Anderson Valley  Hop Ottin IPA will always win over a Speakeasy Prohibition and a Guinness will always win over a Lagunitas Imperial Porter. I thought about this while drinking my Lagunator wednesday night. Though it may never win an award, it’s still one of the best beers out there… no matter what type it is.

Posted in The Barfly Chronicles.


Archived Observation

I always say that I'm fragile, because any little step outside my current routine throws my body into days worth of sickness and distress. Like the time we stayed up with people from the bar until 5:00 AM. Or the time we had to take a non-stop redeye from San Francisco through L.A. to Tampa to visit Avery's dad. By the time we got to Tampa, it was something like 5:00 in the morning and we still had to get the rental car and try to remember whether it was the "Hunter's Green" or "Hunter's Glen" gated community his dad lived in.

So we get there, and of course they wake up and make this huge breakfast, and by then it seems kind of pointless to start sleeping so we stay up all day (which is basically all day and all night and all day at this point) and I start getting this little headache sometime during the afternoon which turns into a little neckache some time later, so I take about six ibuprofin and pray. We're supposed to be going out to this World-Renowned Steakhouse where you can practically choose the cow you want your steak to come from and I'm just hoping that I can make it through this dinner so I can finally sleep.

The steak place is some kind of gigantic castle, just sitting there all conspicuously right in the heart of the Tampa Bay area, with dark lighting and blood-red interior, and the wine list is the size of a dictionary from the Reference Section of the library — the kind that sits on its own pedestal — and is actually chained to the table because rumor has it that people try to steal them as souvenirs all the time, since their wine cellar supposedly has every wine in existence, or close to it. The menu is equally as extensive, where you can not only choose what cut of steak you want and how you want it cooked, but also the thickness and/or weight, and it's one of those dinners where everything under the sun is included in the price of the steak, like a salad and a soup and little garlic toasts, and a baked potato and bread and vegetables as if the 2-pound steak wasn't enough food. And I'm slowly feeling worse and worse, and my neckache is paralyzing me at this point while slowly creeping upwards, taking over the entire back of my skull and pretty soon the whole front of my skull, which of course only serves to make me feel nauseous, and the food keeps coming and the waiters are hovering and the little smelly garlic toasts just start sending me bad nauseous-smell vibes and I just know that I'm not going to make it through this meal.

But I keep taking tiny bites of the huge appetizers that someone ordered, and then the enormous side dishes that come with the meal but really are like a meal in themselves, and it's taking an eternity. The steak finally gets extracted from the cow and brought to the table, and I just look at the steak and smell the steak fumes and have to run to the restroom right then and there if only to cry in pain and splash some water on my face. The Avery's stepmother comes searching for me and everyone's concerned and they try to eat really fast and don't even mind that I have to take my entire expensive dinner home in a box. But then they want to go to the dessert building, yes, that's right, the dessert building, built solely for dessert-eating purposes, but FIRST we need to take the guided tour of the wine cellar and the kitchen, with all of the assembly-line salad-makers and assembly-line baked potato-makers and our tour guide, who takes it all very seriously. So we finally get through the dessert course which offers another dictionary-sized menu, and start driving home and I can't even see straight at this point, my headache is so blinding, and every little lurch that Avery's dad makes with the car just sends waves of nausea through me so I'm just gripping the leather seat for dear life and just as I think that I'm going to fall down and die we pull into the driveway. I manage to get the words "open the door" out of my mouth, the headache affecting my brain so much that I've forgotten that it's a four-door car. The only thing I remember thinking is that I needed to find an inconspicuous place to throw up because I didn't want to mar the nice driveway. The I took a Xanax and collapsed on the bed.

In a nutshell, that's exactly what happened to me on Sunday, substituting the Belgian Beer Festival for the Steakhouse. In my vain attempts to find an explanation of why I should be throwing up all day I blamed the lox on my bagel, accused someone of tampering with my All-Sport sport drink, and entertained the thought of pesticide poisoning from the tomato…until Avery reminded me that he ate the exact same things as I did, and he sure as hell didn't spend the day puking.

Posted in Observations.


Travel Agents and Hotel Reps

I hate having to pick up the phone and deal with those travel industry people. It's not that I'm afraid of the phone, its just those people with their try-to-book-you-in-the-most-expensive room spiel with their little scripted questions, and god forbid you try to interrupt them and ask a question. Like this woman from the hotel on the phone just now who read off the rooms that they had, but not the prices associated with those rooms, and doesn't even tell me the exorbitant price of $209 a night until she reads the entire thing back to me confirmation and all, and then, when she asks if I have any questions, I ask her if that is the cheapest room they have (thinking that maybe when I said the room with the king bed she thought that I meant the room with the king bed and the balcony and the spa&#41 and I ask her if any discounts can apply because we all know that the room is not worth $209, and she all condescendingly says "well, I didn't even look for those discounted rates because you didn't say anything," and I didn't say anything because she wouldn't let me get a word in edgewise until she was done reading her scripted presentation to me, and then she starts looking and makes a big sighing production out of it until she finally finds the discount, which would bring the rate down to $105 a night which is a big, big difference if you ask me, and then she makes another comment about how I'm supposed to tell her these things in the first place so that she doesn't have to go back and make all the changes. Then when she's done and starts to launch into her end-of-the-call part of the script in front of her, I interrupt her and she's still talking, so I talk a little louder and apologize for not telling her about the discount in the first place and then she interrupts me and tells me that they "just don't want to keep people on the phone" while they make the changes which only took all of about 90 seconds to change anyway, and what should she care if I brought up the discount late and want the damn discount so much that I don't mind waiting the whole minute and a half to get $104 off the room? Its so obvious that she just doesn't want to do any extra work, so I then remind her that she didn't even tell me the rate until she was done with confirming the whole reservation, nor did she ask if I even wanted it confirmed, and she goes "Ooooohhhhkaaaaayyyy, well you have a Merry Christmas and thank you for calling Marriott" all sickly-sweet which infuriated me even more because for all she knows I could be Jewish or Muslim or anti-holiday in general, WHICH I AM, and I wish that we could just be gone with the whole interacting-with-humans concept of Customer Service because I would rather punch a bunch of buttons on the phone any day and get it over with, rather than have to deal with the condescending attitudes of bitter, minimum-wage-making phone slaves.

Posted in Scowls.


Belgian Beer Fest Recap

Yesterday was the Belgian Beer Festival at the Toronado. Actually, it wasn’t at the Toronado, it was at the Golden Peacock, a rental hall across the street. The Belgian Beer Festival is one of the most important beer events in the United States… the others being the Toronado’s Barleywine Festival, the Great American Beer Festival in Colorado and the Firkin Festival (or whatever they’re calling it these days) at Goose Island Brewery in Chicago. People made the pilgrimage from as far as Seattle to attend this festival, and it was well worth it.

The Belgian Beer Festival is a formal tasting of 19 Belgian Beers over a seven hour period. You arrive at 11:30am and don’t leave until well after 6:00pm… during that time, you listen to some of the masters of the brewing craft describe the beers and you eat a six course gourmet meal.

Janet, Carlos and I grabbed a four seat table in Robert’s section, and the fourth chair was filled by Peg, the Pastry chef from the Hotel Majestic, and winner of a number of city wide dessert competitions.

The beers that we sampled were:

  • De Konick
  • Rodenbach Red
  • Duvel
  • Brasserie a Vapeur’s Vapeur en Folie 1992 Vintage
  • Cantillon Lambic (2 year old), Iris (2 year old) and a three year old Lambic
  • Hanssens Gueze and Kriek
  • Abbayde des Rocs Noel
  • Brasserie Dubuisson Scaldis Noel 1997 Vintage

  • Brasserie Dupont Les Bons Voyeux
  • Boon Framboise Mariage Parfait 1997
  • Chimay Grand Reserve 1994

  • Affligem Noel
  • Trappistes Orval Orval
  • Hoegaarden Wit

  • Von Housebrouck Kasteel Brown

The food was pretty much unremarkable… the Waterzool (fish soup) needed salt, pepper and a bay leaf. The Canapes were unbalanced… the pork loin was flavorless, and the compote… well, it was mushy. However the fresh fruit and cheeses were a real highlight of the night.

Favorites:

The pairing of the Chimay Grande Reserve and the Chimay Beer Cheese (which tasted almost like a smoked gouda) and the 6 month Old Chimay Cheese, which is similar to a Stilton or an Aged Cheddar.

The last three beers: Orval, Wit and Kasteel set up a perfect finish to the night. The Orval is extremely complex and malty, which led to the palate cleansing Wit, followed by the candy-sweet Kasteel Brown, the perfect dessert beer with its sweet, almost amaretto-like taste.

The three unblended cask-aged Lambics. They make less then 500 barrels of these beers, and we were one of the only groups in America to ever try these beers.

Rodenbach Red – one of the finest lambics ever produced. Full flavor and a great nose… if it was available on tap, I would never leave the bar.

The unfortunate thing about yesterday is that Janet fell ill about 6 beers into the tasting, and had to head home. However, her seat was never empty, as friends and locals kept on stopping by to see how Janet was doing. I bumped into Nico Freccia, the co-owner of the new 21st Amendment and local writer for Celebrator Beer News… where we talked about the fate of the dearly departed Golden Gate Brewery and the new brewpubs on the horizon. I also spent some time with the Speakeasy Brewery crowd, and noticed people from Russian River Brewing and Elysian Brewing in Seattle.

After the festival ended, we all retired to the Toronado for a quick drink. Peg, Carlos and I grabbed a table next to Tad and Steve. Then Jeff from Rosamunde came over to bum a cigarette from Steve, so we all talked. Then Travis and Todd, the bartenders from Great Water, a Thai Restaurant and good beer bar in North Beach came in for an end-of -the-weekend beer. I only stayed long enough to have a Hop Ottin before going home to check on Janet. All in all, a good night, considering the circumstances.

Posted in The Barfly Chronicles.


San

Topic #24
San Francisco Falling Down

When Janet and I first decided to take the plunge and make the move to San Francisco, we did our research on what the city was like. Actually, what we did was watch television shows set in California and read through a couple of websites talking about life in California.

When we first came to San Francisco to scout out apartments and jobs, we found the weather to be beautiful. The food was amazing… I ate burritos almost every day. By the time we left to finalize our affairs in Boston (and to graduate college&#41, we felt that San Francisco was the perfect place to live.

Landing in Boston confirmed our feelings. When we left San Francisco, it was a cool 60 degrees. When we landed at Logan International Airport, it was snowing. Again.

The first year in San Francisco, we reveled in the fantastic weather. We spent Christmas in Napa wearing shorts and t-shirts. Well, Janet was wearing a short little plaid skirt… but I digress. When our relatives called us from Connecticut to tell us how bad the winter was, we would rub it in by telling them that we were wearing jeans and a t-shirt. Yeah, we were cruel, but so what? If they didn’t like shoveling wet snow every day, they could move just like we did.

In San Francisco, we didn’t have any snow. We didn’t have thunderstorms or hurricanes. San Francisco wasn’t prone to tornadoes or even spells of extreme heat. We were living in a 65 degree paradise. Even the fog was charming.

The second year in San Francisco, we had a horribly hot summer. We had fans running 24 hours a day at the house. Since offices in the City weren’t prepared for the extreme heat, they didn’t have strong enough air conditioners. The Director of the division where I worked changed the dress policy from ties and slacks to tank tops and shorts.

So, for two months, we would go to work wearing as little as humanly possible. Unfortunately, at 3:30pm, the fog would start to roll in. Fog is San Francisco’s natural air conditioner. By 4pm, the temperature would drop to 60 degrees, which meant that when we left the office, we would freeze. Every morning, we would say that we should bring sweaters for the afternoon… then we would start sweating before we finished getting dressed and we would decided that we didn’t want to haul the sweater to the office… yadda yadda yadda. Then we would leave to catch the bus home and just like every other night, we would freeze.

The third year, we just decided that the weather was just too boring. Since there were no season changes, the leaves never turned color, the grass never died, nothing ever changed. That was the year that we also realized what happens when a city doesn’t get rain on a regular basis.

No, we’re not talking about anything like a drought. I mean, as long as there is bottled water, Gatorade and Amstel Light, the average San Franciscan would never go thirsty. We’re talking about the other things that you take for granted about the rain.

First off, Rain is nature’s natural air cleaner and ionizer. You know how the air smells after a drizzle? That’s right… it smells great. All of the pollutants are sucked out of the air… and the little pollen pieces that makes me sneeze are nowhere to be found (ok, the mold comes after the rain ends, but I’m not that allergic to mold&#41.

Also, rain cleans the shit off of the streets. All of that dog shit and piss that covers the sidewalks gets cleaned by the rain. Since we don't have regular rain, the city has a program where sidewalk cleaners come out with compressed hot water and steam clean the crap off of the sidewalks. They usually do this early in the morning.

Once a month during our third year in San Francisco, they decided to steam clean the area by the bus stop at 6:30 am. Unfortunately, we were catching the 6:30am bus that year. So, that one morning, each month, we would walk out to a steamy dried piss and puke filled fog cloud. Mmm. What a way to start the morning. It was absolutely disgusting.

So, now we're about five months into our fifth year in San Francisco. We haven't gotten any thunderstorms or hurricanes. However, we've been in the middle of an extreme cold snap the last few weeks… cold enough for frost in the city. On top of that, last week there was an earthquake. Follow that by a couple days of torrential rain and a tornado in the East Bay. Then we had the power failure on one of the coldest days of the month on Tuesday.

What next? Locusts?

To someone from the East Coast, the state of California seems like another country, if not a whole other planet, what with all its Hollywood and Beverly Hills mansions and wineries and famous people and the Spellings and whatnot. When I was growing up in small-town New England, people who had the money to spend on vacations went to the exciting city of Orlando, Florida, with all of its Disney World and later, Epcot Center and MGM Studios, and beaches and hot weather and alligators and bad-smelling water. Back then, it seemed highly unlikely that your average East Coast resident would even want – or need – to venture all the way over to the opposite side of the country, never mind to the vastly famous state of California.

Evidently, I'm not the only one who entertained this thought, because the first question out of everybody's mouth (and I do mean everybody's — I must have answered that question two hundred times by now&#41 when they find out that we moved here from the East is "and what brought you to California?" Truth be told, we moved out here totally on a whim, less than 24 hours after our college graduation ceremony for no real reason in particular. Being fresh out of college we figured that we had to find a job anyway, and California seemed just as good a place as any, so why not? We knew someone moving out here, he had a 24-foot moving van with only 9 feet of stuff, and the rest is history.

As we began to meet people in San Francisco, we started to wonder if there was anyone living in the city who was actually born and raised here. Most people are transplants, leaving the cities and towns where they've grown up and somehow ending up here. When I think of all the people I know, only two or three grew up in the Bay Area. This city's weird that way.

Alluringly weird is how I would describe my experience when we visited San Francisco for the first time, right before we moved out here. The city seemed like something out of a storybook — the people and attitudes were so vibrant and colorful, the vibe was strange and laid-back; totally the opposite from the preppy, stuffy, conservative mannerisms of New England. It was intimidating and very different, yet when our week was up and our plane took off due East, I looked down onto the city's lights and felt sad to go, like I had already gotten attached to something that I couldn't quite identify.

The actual process of living here was a different story altogether. What once seemed so new and exciting on our visit only served to constantly annoy me in the beginning. Laid-back started to seem like just plain lazy and apathetic. Colorful personalities were really just crazy, homeless ex-hippies who constantly harassed passers-by and peed on the street. It took me nearly a year to stop hating this city and all of its liberal-minded, meandering ways. For the next couple of years I suppose that I grew to like it, and would inexplicably defend it to anyone who I heard mention even the slightest criticism of my city, but now I'm beginning to feel the slow rise of the bile of annoyance yet again, and I'm wondering if I should just stop playing with fate and go back to the East Coast where I was born and where maybe I belong, only I just don't realize it yet.

SInce this city has a history of drawing creative people to it like moths to a flame, what you end up with is a conglomeration of opinionated, creative, often high-strung (or strung-out&#41 people, people who were the losers and outcasts in high school who are searching for a place that they can finally feel like they fit somewhere. Believe you me, you will find no shortage of ex-band geeks and tortured souls here. San Francisco is beyond overcrowded. Apartment buildings full of people are literally wall-to-wall, lining street upon street upon street. There are no lawns or flower beds (though people do try, planting things into the occasional crack in the sidewalk&#41, and the only nature we ever get to see is when we go to Golden Gate Park, one of the only city-sponsored patches of grass.

We have a mayor who is a media hound who is completely out of touch with the plight of the common man, and who has appeared in People, guest-starred on Suddenly Susan, and showed up on the Playboy's list of the Best Dressed Men of 1998. We hear more about his hats and where he shops than his policies. We have a public transportation system that, despite having the second-highest paid employees in the country, barely runs. The city is so overcrowded that in order to do something as simple as go out to dinner, you need to decide what cuisine you will crave and what time you will crave it a week in advance, or risk waiting in line for at least 30 minutes, no matter what you choose. Gentrification is running rampant; rents are skyrocketing and forcing people onto the street. With roughly one Starbucks or Jamba Juice per city block, these newly-minted homeless and their army of previously-homeless brethren have even nicer storefronts to sleep in and shinier corners to stand upon. We live in a place where the earth moves under our feet without warning.

When people ask me "what brought us out to California" they're looking for a reason and I usually try to give them one. The funny thing is, not one of them has offered their own reasons in return, and I've never asked. But now I'm beginning to wonder, what is it about this place?

Posted in Topics of the Week (1990s).